In the process of developing new cosmetic products, companies are led to reference new raw materials that allow them to innovate by proposing new formulas, to meet technical constraints or even to align themselves with the latest trends. Coding a new ingredient is not trivial for a manufacturer who must ensure several key points upstream. The ingredient must comply with regulatory requirements as well as the company’s internal requirements. It must also be available and its supply controlled. Multiplying references is therefore not in the company’s interest from a regulatory, logistical or even economic point of view. Formulators must be aware of the impact of the choice of their new ingredients in the formulas they develop. It is therefore in everyone’s interest to capitalize on the existing catalog or to select versatile raw materials combining performance and naturalness.

The basis of a cosmetic product is its formula. In order to stand out from the competition or to offer products that will attract the target consumer, brands must constantly renew and innovate. In the cosmetics industry, one of the ways to innovate is the use of so-called “last generation” raw materials that stand out either by new performances or by a more sustainable approach. New ingredients can therefore allow the creation of new galenics in association with ingredients that have been known and used for years, but they can also allow the substitution of decried or recently banned ingredients. The monitoring of raw materials is therefore a crucial step upstream of new product developments or reformulations of existing products.

However, manufacturers already have extensive ingredient portfolios and are quickly challenged as to the legitimacy of new listings. For example, is it reasonable to integrate a new emulsifier when they already have a dozen of them? It therefore seems imperative to capitalize on versatile raw materials. This notion of versatility encompasses three main aspects: use in the largest possible number of galenic formulations, multiple functionalities and broad compatibility with all ingredients used in cosmetics.

Innovation in the cosmetics industry requires, above all, securing a responsible, sustainable and profitable supply. With ingredients selected according to reliable criteria, companies can have medium to long-term visibility on their ingredient portfolio. It seems imperative to capitalize on raw materials that can become pillars in formulas or transversal in product ranges. It is by relying on plural and robust ingredients that a formulator will be able to express all his creativity.

It is first of all important to surround oneself with all-purpose raw materials that can be used in a maximum of galenic formulas such as emulsions, whether fluid or thick, direct or reverse, but also in purely aqueous or anhydrous products, whether they are liquid or solid. The use of the same ingredient in a multitude of formula frames is therefore a first step in the rationalization of its catalog.

Moreover, if the same ingredient can be used to fulfill several functions, the benefit is double. The formulator can be satisfied with the use of a single raw material instead of multiplying the references. This notion of multi-tasking ingredients fits perfectly with the desire of brands and consumers to have minimalist products: simple and effective. The time of long and incomprehensible cosmetic formulas is over, now it’s time for readability and sobriety.

Since 2014, PolymerExpert has focused its research and development work on meeting the naturalness requirements expressed by consumers and ultimately by formulators. To this end, the company has developed the EstoGel® range, polymers capable of modifying the rheology of fatty phases. The specifications contained two essential elements: to allow the rationalization of formulators’ ingredient portfolios by proposing a versatile ingredient and to facilitate the industrialization of the ingredient so that the passage from the laboratory to the pilot stage and then to production is not utopian. Finally, it was important to anticipate tomorrow’s formulation methods and new customer expectations in order to propose a viable ingredient in the long term.

Today’s cosmetics industry has gone green and sustainable, and it is essential to offer ingredients that are safe for humans and the environment. With increasingly demanding regulatory standards, an ingredient supplier has a duty to develop ingredients with long-term visibility. Moreover, as mentioned before, the key word for the ideal ingredient is versatility.

Through its EstoGel® range, PolymerExpert meets the current expectations in terms of excipients for oil phases. Indeed, this polymer can be used in all formulas containing oil and modifies their rheology. From 1% of use in the formula, it allows the suspension of particles. EstoGel® also has emulsion stabilization functions, film-forming properties and improves product spread. Several grades are available: from 91 to 100% natural origin (according to ISO 16128) with various mechanical properties according to your needs. The EstoGel® range meets your performance needs when replacing petrochemical raw materials.

EstoGel® in a few words :

– Can be used in all formulas containing oils

– Modification of the rheology of oil phases

– Suspension of particles

– Stabilization of emulsions

– Film-forming properties

– Improvement of the spreading of products

– Substitution of petrochemical raw materials

– Naturalness superior to 91%.