Aqueous gels have never been more popular. Driven by K-Beauty trends and evolving consumer expectations, gel textures are now synonymous with lighter, fresher skincare products that layer beautifully on the skin.

Today’s consumers are looking for formulations that are:

• Fresh
• Lightweight
• Non-greasy
• Easy to spread
• Elegant on the skin

Yet behind this apparent simplicity lies one of the biggest formulation challenges in modern cosmetics.

As soon as formulators move away from conventional synthetic polymers—such as acrylates, petroleum-based polymers, or microplastics—creating a truly premium gel becomes significantly more challenging.

Many naturally derived gelling systems still present significant sensory limitations.

In practice, formulators frequently encounter the same drawbacks:

• Stringy textures
• Brittle gels
• Poor pickup during application
• Sticky after-feel
• Insufficient viscosity

Xanthan gum, for example, can easily produce an undesirable “slimy” or stringy texture. Certain carrageenans, on the other hand, tend to form rigid, brittle gels. Other natural systems require relatively high use levels, which can negatively impact the overall sensory profile.

As a result, despite growing sustainability concerns, synthetic polymers continue to set the benchmark for many cosmetic gel formulations.

Why?

Because they make it much easier to achieve the modern textures consumers expect:

• Smooth
• Crystal-clear
• Easy to scoop and pick up
• Pleasant quick-break during application
• Elegant skin feel and finish

The texture of a gel is determined by the architecture of its polymer network.

Depending on the structure of the gelling agent, polymer chains interact with water in very different ways. Some create highly elastic, stringy networks, while others form rigid, brittle structures.

The formulation challenge is therefore to build a polymer network that can:

• Efficiently structure the aqueous phase
• Maintain excellent stability
• Deliver a modern, elegant sensory experience

Historically, this is precisely where natural gelling systems have struggled to compete with their synthetic counterparts.

For several years, the cosmetics industry has been seeking alternatives capable of matching the sensory performance of synthetic polymers while improving the environmental profile of formulations.

Today, simply thickening a formula is no longer enough.

The real objective is to create a gel that is:

• Stable
• Easy to pick up
• Non-stringy
• Exhibits a pleasant quick-break
• Delivers a modern sensory profile

This is exactly the philosophy behind the development of ViscoPure®.

Unlike many conventional natural gelling systems, ViscoPure® functions as a true gelling agent, efficiently structuring the aqueous phase while delivering sensory properties that closely approach those of synthetic polymer benchmarks.

This enables formulators to create gels that are:

• More elegant
• Less stringy
• Easier to scoop
• More pleasant to apply
• Characterized by particularly attractive rheological behavior

This innovation was recognized at the 2026 in-cosmetics Global exhibition, where ViscoPure® received the Gold Award for Best Functional Ingredient.

For many years, formulators had to accept a compromise:

• Natural gels with limited sensory elegance
• Or premium textures relying on synthetic polymers

The emergence of new bio-based polymer architectures such as ViscoPure® is opening a new path forward.

A path toward aqueous gels that successfully combine:

• Outstanding sensory performance
• Elegant texture
• A more sustainable formulation approach

High-naturality gels are perfectly aligned with today’s evolving cosmetic market expectations.

However, behind their apparent simplicity lies a far more complex formulation reality. Electrolyte sensitivity, stability, transparency, sensory performance, and process robustness all directly influence the balance of the polymer network.

Understanding these mechanisms has therefore become essential for developing natural gel textures that are not only high-performing but also elegant and robust. In this context, selecting the right polymer system plays a central role in achieving the optimal balance between performance, sensory appeal, and formulation stability.